Me posing at Dracula's grave in Kitzingen. April 2008 |
A bottle of the famous Franken wine, from my perosnal collection. |
Kitzingen is a small town of fewer than 20,000 in the German
state of Bavaria. It’s the county seat
of the largest wine producing county in Germany. I love that town. It’s my favorite place in the world. When people think of Kitzingen they probably think of
wine (The distinctive wine bottles Franken wine is known for). Or they may think of the leaning tower. Do a
google image search of Kitzingen and you will likely see the leaning tower called the Falterturm,
the Main River, or the old bridge. The Alte
Mainbrücke in Kitzingen is over 700 years old and until about a dozen years
ago, cars drove on it.
The Falterturm, 2008. You can only kind of tell, but that tower is leaning baby. |
Kitzingen is not a tourist attraction. There are several others nearby like Rothenberg,
Dinkelsbuhl, Geiselwind, and Bamberg.
But it’s beautiful and I love it.
You can never have too many pictures of the Falterturm. 2008 |
I never knew what Falterturm meant. If you google that word it only refers to the
crooked tower in Kitzingen. Breaking up
the word into two words is promising.
Falter mean butterfly. Turm means
tower. Butterfly Tower? Or entering it
as one word you get Falter Tower. To
falter means to grow weak. I believe
this makes more sense.
Anyway, in 2008 I took my then fiancée with me to Germany tosee my family. I
had proposed the previous Christmas and wanted to show her off. So of course, we saw the Falterturm and the
old bridge. I mean, if we are staying in
my mom’s hometown with my Oma and Opa that’s something we just had to see.
One day Opa took us to the old cemetery (Alter friedhof)
just west of downtown (der Stadt). We
walked around. It’s nice, peaceful,
pretty. But there was something strange.
There was one grave site that stuck out.
It had a gate around it with a plaque.
And there was overhead on the roof of the thing some crazy artwork. It was beautiful but very dark in
nature. Angels spitting out lightning,
skeletons in the Heavens. There were
skulls on the outside of this cage-like structure. IT was old, maybe 150 or 200 years old. It was so bizarre. We took pictures. I know that sounds morbid, but this was such
a macabre thing, such weird ambiance that it just begged to be archived. I had to capture it.
Kharla examining this mystery grave. 2008 |
After our vacation I showed my mom in Texas all our
photos. She saw the cemetery pics and
said, “Oh good! You saw Dracula’s grave.” What?!
I laughed and she said, “It’s true.
Rumors have it Dracula was buried there.” Yeah right!
Later on, I googled it and I was excited and annoyed at the
same time. First off
I wrote a research paper on Dracula in high school and she
never thought to bring this up? And
second, that town was so important to me growing up, it would have made it even
cooler to me to know this information.
Hell, I could have bragged about it to my friends. Third, turns out Dracula’s grave had ties to
the Falterturm! The very tower that was
the identity of the city, part of what defined my relationship with my Opa. I
wasn’t mad, just imagine how much more awesome that info would have made
things.
Dracula's heart is in the spire ball! |
But the “other” legend of the Falterturm is
that Dracula was buried in that ornate grave, but his heart was not. It’s located in the ball on the top of the
spire on top of the Falterturm. And the
heart wants to reunite with the body and so some force is pulling it. The tower is crooked because the heart is
pulling it.
Wow. That is so much
better of a story than the wine in the mortar legend. Don’t you think?
My German is terrible, and the text on the plaque is in all
caps and in a horribly hard to read font.
Best I can figure out what it’s saying is something like this:
When the heavens call forth and His voice is heard, He will reverberate, and He will come to us, and we will follow Him in the solemnity of the last supper.
That is some end of days stuff right there. Very similar to Revelation 19:17:
And I saw an angel standing in the sun, who cried in a loud voice to all the birds flying in midair “Come gather together for the great supper of God.” NIV
I just couldn't get a good angle to capture the entire painting. |
Look at these pics after reading the Revelation commentary. Wow. |
John the Apostle wrote that. That section of Revelation talks about a great battle. Many would be killed. This battle would decide what would remain in the World. Godliness or the anti-Christ. The King of Kings himself would ride on a white horse, the Word would prevail. Christ would prevail.
And the flesh of the
wicked would be eaten.
This, at least in American
culture, is not typically the type of stuff put on graves. It lent itself to the Dracula mythos. On second thought, maybe I should be glad I didn’t know that story growing up.
###
Video of a couple of knuckle heads visiting the grave after dark. They show much more than what I was able to capture. You can see much more in scope and context.
I used to stay in the gasthaus across the street doing TDY in the USAF in the late 80's. I heard the same story of the tower leaning toward Dracula's grave. I didn't hear the heart in the globe story though. Sounds like an embellishment on an already fantastical story.
ReplyDeleteThe poor rich folks buried there were probably super religious to have a judgement day high-relief mural on their grave. They probably didn't expect to be later thought of as Dracula.
thanks for the comment. It was a long time ago but seems like yesterday!
ReplyDeleteI was there 76 to78 Larson barracks up the hill from the cemetery and the tower, have seen it and heard the story that his heart was in the tower also. Wish I could return
DeleteThis was so much fun to read, thank you for sharing! I will have to visit when I finally make it to Germany someday
ReplyDeleteThanks! I actually made it back for a week right after you posted this. Grave is still there , though some of the wooden skulls on the outside are broken. The town has changed a lot in the ten years since was there last. And covid certainly does not help things.
DeleteWhat I heard when I lived in Wuerzburg was that parts of Dracula were shipped around for burial and the heart was sent to Kitzingen and buried in the tomb. Who knows.
ReplyDeleteThere's probably dozens of little stories about this legend :D
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